Before You Begin
Be sure to charge your battery fully.
Be sure to charge your remote fully.
Find a good clean surface to work. (DO NOT build your board on carpet. Static shocks can kill your ESC).
Don't Feel Like Reading? Watch The Build Video!
Be Sure You Have Everything!
Please refer to your packing sheet to be sure you have everything prior to starting your build. If you are missing anything please let us know within 48 hours of delivery and we will send out replacements if needed.
The Drive Train
The first step to assembling the drive train is to secure the motor mounts. To do this you'll need to located the following:
(1) Rear Truck
(2) Motor Mounts
(6) M5 Bolts
(6) M5 Nuts
(8) M4x8 Bolts
To begin the assembly process slide the motor mounts over each hanger and align the mounting holes of the motor mount to the holes on the truck.
Next slide the M5 bolts through the holes and secure each mount with the included nuts.
Fasten the nuts with the included tools or your own tools if you prefer.
Once the nuts have been tightened this is what you should be left with:
Next slide each motor through the motor mount and secure the motors with the provided M4x8 screws.
When screwing in the M4 screws, don't tighten them all the way. We want to make sure the motor is able to slide back and forth so we can tension our belts later.
Be sure to do this with both motors.
Next slide on each motor pulley and secure them with the included M3 set screw.
Next we'll need to install the included bearings within each wheel pulley. Use the front truck as a means to press the bearing into the wheel pulley.
Do the same thing with both sides of all 4 wheels.
Next, install each wheel pulley into 2 of the wheels.
Now add the belts over the axle and around the motor pulley before adding your wheel/pulley assembly onto your axle as well.
Rotate the wheel/pulley assembly and wrap the belt around the wheel pulley linking the motor pulley and wheel pulley together.
You should notice that the belt is pretty loose. We'll move onto tensioning the belt next.
To tension your belts, pull the motor away from trucks. While holding your belts tight, tighten the m4 screws securing your motors in place.
Finally, attach the axle nuts securing your wheels in place.
And there you go! Your complete Drive Train!
Next we'll move onto the enclosure and get everything installed in it before mounting it to our deck.
To complete prepping your enclosure you'll need the following hardware:
(22) M4 Top Screws
(22) M4 Stand Offs
(22) M4 Bottom Screws
(2) Rubber Grommets
(1) Gap Cover
(3) Large Adhesive Strips
Before we begin locate the bag of enclosure hardware and accessories. It'll look something like this:
You'll also need the small Phillips head M4 screw located in your Tool Bag to complete this installation as well.
The idea behind this little screw is that you can use it as a temporary head to screw the stand off in, then take the screw out to utilize the stand off later on.
To begin installation, screw the phillips head screw into the stand off.
Next, slide one of the bottom bolts through one of the enclosure holes.
Begin to thread the bottom bolt into the stand off. Eventually the thread locker will make it too difficult to thread by hand.
Utilize the phillips screw driver built into your skate tool to drive the stand off onto the bottom bolt.
Once the stand off is tight, begin to unscrew the phillips head screw from the stand off. Because the bottom bolt has thread locker, the bottom bolt will stay tight and the phillips screw will unscrew easily.
Once the stand off is in, it should look like this:
This process can be relatively lengthy. So using an electric screwdriver and a pair of pliers can speed up the process. We do include the tools for those who may not have access to their own tools, but using more sophisticated tools will definitely speed this process up.
If you do decide to use an electric screw driver or drill be very careful.
SET THE DRILL TO THE LOWEST TORQUE SETTING TO AVOID CAUSING DAMAGE.
This is the way we install the hardware in the enclosures when building the MBoards built Interstellar boards.
Once you are done installing all of the stand offs it should look like this:
There are 22 screw holes so that the seal is nice and even. You do not have to use all 22 screws, but you do sacrifice water resistance.
Next install the rubber grommets into the predrilled motor wire holes.
Next insert the gap cover into the cable cut out of the enclosure. We aren't going to be utilizing that in this build.
Next, stick 3 of the large adhesive pads to the 3 raised sections of the enclosure towards the front of the enclosure (opposite side of the grommets we just installed).
Now that we've prepped our enclosure, we can begin installing all of our electronics.
Peel the backing off of each strip and drop the battery in.
Press firmly so the battery adheres to the adhesive.
Next, insert the power button and charge port into the predrilled holes.
Secure them with the included nuts.
If you find that they are vibrating loose, add a bit of hot glue to keep them secure.
Next, stick the last large adhesive strip to the back of the FocBox Unity.
Press the FocBox firmly into place with the 6 phase wires pointing away from the battery.
Connect the Battery and the FocBox via the XT60 connector.
Next connect the Power Button to the FocBox.
Connect the charge port and the battery using the red JST connector. Be sure that red goes to red and black goes to black. If the pins are mis-pinned, be sure to re-pin them as this will damage your charger.
Connect the receiver with the receiver cable. Make sure 'V' aligns with the white cable and '5V' aligns with the red cable. If this cable is plugged in backwards you receiver will not communicate properly.
Apply the medium sized adhesive strip to the back of the receiver.
Stick it in-between the FocBox and the Battery.
Plug the receiver wire into the FocBox.
Finally plug the 2 pin JST connector to the 2 pin port on the FocBox. This allows the remote to monitor your battery's voltage and display battery capacity on the remote.
This is everything we need to do before final assembly. Set this aside until we are ready to close everything up.
Locate the flattened cardboard box containing the 2 piece grip tape set.
Start by peeling the corners of the backing paper and folding them back, we only want a very small portion of the adhesive to show so we don't accidentally stick the grip tape to the deck in the wrong place.
Do this to both corners.
Carefully align the grip tape to the holes on the deck. Once the holes are aligned, stick the small exposed sections of grip tape down to the deck.
Now that the alignment is locked in we can set the rest of the grip tape. Peel the rest of the backing paper off.
Now carefully lay the grip tape down and press it into place.
Use one of the front wheels to roll the grip tape down.
Repeat the same steps for the other side. Carefully align the 2nd sheet to match up with the 1st sheet to create as seamless as an application as we can.
Once your done it should look like this!
Next we'll move on to installing the gasket. The application is actually basically the same as the grip tape. We'll start with a small section and do a little at a time making sure all of the holes align.
Peel off a small section of the backing paper.
Align the the 2 holes of the gasket to the 2 holes on the deck.
Do the same thing on the other side.
Now slowly peel the remaining backing paper off the sides as you stick down the gaskets over the deck holes.
Now firmly press the gasket onto the deck.
Now that we are done with prepping the deck, we can move onto final assembly.
Begin with your drive train flipped right side up with the base plate face up. Next insert the motor wires into the enclosure through the enclosure grommets.
Next, plug your sensor wires in. Pay attention to which side of the FocBox that motor's phase wires are going to be plugged into. As you can see in the photo above we have our 2 sets of 3 phase wires crossing as they come out of the FocBox. This helps organize the cables a bit better. But this also means that we have to cross the sensor cables and plug them into the opposite ports.
At the end of it, you just want to make sure the matching sensor wire and phase wires of the same motor are being plugged into the same side of the FocBox as each other.
Now plug in the 6 phase wires we just spoke about.
Now that we have all of our electronics plugged in, it's time to configure the FocBox using the Vesc Tool.
Using the included USB-C cable, plug the Focbox into your PC.
Configuring the FocBox deserves it's own tutorial so watch the video linked below or click through to read the written instructions.
CLICK HERE FOR FOCBOX SET UP INSTRUCTIONS
VIDEO GOES HERE
Once you have configured the settings on the FocBox, you are ready to close the board up. Flip the Drive Train Assembly and the enclosure over and set it on top of the under side of the deck.
Keep the "M" Logo orientation in mind when mounting the enclosure to make sure it is facing the correct direction.
Now add your riser pads and secure your trucks to your deck.
Now we need to add your front wheels to your front truck. To keep your build "Future Proof" the trucks actually come with longer than normal axles that allows you to add all terrain tires and other wider wheels. In this case we don't need the extra space so we will work around this by adding a spacer onto the axle before our wheel.
Secure your wheels with the included skate tool.
Next we'll use the 22 Top screws to attach the enclosure to the deck.
Use the phillips screw driver included with your skate tool or your own screw driver to attach the 22 screws.
Next add the nose guards by sliding them onto the ends and bending them into place.
And the final step when it comes to assembling the kit is adding on the gear covers. Use the included allen key and M4 screws to secure the gear covers to each motor mount.
AND THAT'S IT! YOU ARE DONE! WOOHOO!
Have fun riding and always wear a helmet!
Having trouble? Try these to solve the most common issues!
If you find that your belt is rubbing, try reversing the motor pulley to keep your belt in place. It's totally okay if your motor pulleys are on opposite ways.
Don't be afraid to add or remove speed rings to get everything to fit properly. You can even put your axle nut on backwards if you need some extra space.
While mounting your enclosure, you may find that the stand offs aren't lining up to your deck holes right away. The weight of the components usually flexes the enclosure just enough to move the stand offs out of view. Try applying pressure on different areas of the enclosure to reveal the stand off.
Still have trouble?
Don't hesitate to reach our for help! You can chat with us on our website or send an email to our support team here: firstname.lastname@example.org.